View of Kotor from the fort
Arial view of Kotor
Kotor, and its fjord
Andy and Danny
Into Montenegro (the sticker on the bottom left was put there by an English motorcyclist I met on the Austria/Italy border!
Dubrovnik
Dubrovnic
Dubrovnic
Camping on the beach-cum-quay On the 21st, I met up with Danny, a Swiss cyclist I had met on my first day in Croatia. He took a different route to Mostar, but we are heading in the same direction. That morning (I had just arrived in Mostar after a stupidly early train to get back) we also ran into another couple of cyclists- James who is en route to Jerusalem, and Fabian who is also heading East. I am still travelling with Danny, and we have now run into Fabian again so we are rather a jolly little team. I am the only cyclist I have met so far who is not sporting a beard. I might sprout one to appear a little more Islamic when I get further east.
I digress. Danny and I cycled south from Mostar which was rather satisfyingly downhill most of the way, and it was interesting when we noticed that we were in Serb areas when the Roman alphabet signs were blacked out by graffiti, and in Croat or Muslim areas when the Cyrillic signs were blacked out. To get to the Dubrovnic part of Croatia, we had to dart back into Bosnia's 14kn coastline before re-emerging into Croatia. It was a nasty wet day, and we warmed our hands by a barbecue during a coffee break (Danny is addicted to the stuff!)
That evening, failing to find a campsite, we found a deserted small beach-cum-fishing quay where we pitched our tents, and made spaghetti with spicy ragout sauce and rehydrated some mash. It was really very scenic.
We then made good time into Dubrovnic, and accepted a very grotty but impeccably located apartment spitting distance from the city walls. We agreed to a lower price on the condition that we would not cook in the flat- so we used our stove in the courtyard!
Dubrovnic itself is a very beautiful place, and it is just as I had expected. It is rather like St Malo, but with nicer colour stone, and a lot more panache. It was great to have a rest day the following day (my sleeping bag liner is now clean and my sleeping bag is dry!!) We ran into Fabian, the other Swiss chap in the supermarket co-incidentally, and arranged to meet again in Kotor, Montenegro the following day. He was leaving at sparrow's fart, so we didn't cycle with him, favouring a more gentlemanly 8.30am.
The route out of Dubrovnic this morning was rather a climb, but afforded stunning views of the old town. On my way into Montenegro I asked if I could change my left over Kunas into Euro in Macedonia, and was promptly reminded that "Montenegro" was the name of the country I was about to enter! I received my first stamp in my passport in my entire trip at the border.
In Montenegro, we immediately found a little butcher's shop which would not only sell čebapčiči meatballs and chicken pieces, but also grill them for you next door, and serve them to you in a lovely greasy pitta! Delicious!
We then saved a tortoise that was about to get run over on the curb by hurding him back into the brush- every 10 seconds his head would emerge from his shell, he would try to move forward, then a car would roll by and his head would go back inside for a further 10 seconds.
To get to Kotor, we circumnavigated the largest fjord in southern Europe which is absolutely stunning, with little villages on the banks, and ancient churches. There is a monastery on an artificial island that was built hundreds of years ago!
On the banks, we ran into Andy, another Swiss chap who has decided to walk from the Iranian border home to Switzerland. He started in December, and has no money, and no tent. He has relied on people to look after him all the way, and he has been very successful. Amazingly he refused some pasta when I offered it to him!
Kotor is a truly special little place. Set on the banks of the fjord with the mountains behind it, it is protected by ancient city walls just as Dubrovnic is. It is much smaller, but feels more authentic and less touristy. There is a marina with some lovely mega-yachts flying the British Ensign.
Overlooking the city, hundreds of feet up, is the old fortress that used to protect the city from the Ottoman Turks. The climb was tough but gave us the most incredible views.
I am sharing a room with the other Swiss guys- very cash efficvient and more comfortable than camping! I have yet to finalise my route east. I had thought to go through Albania to Kosovo (both countries are aparently safe) and then through Macedonia and Bulgaria. The FCO however advises against the border area between the two countries due to unexploded devices, so my insurance is not valid for there amd I therefore won't go.
I will probably go down to Tirana, then into South Macedonia, and into Greece however I have not ruled out the Tirana-Scopje-Sofia route. Watch this space!
I digress. Danny and I cycled south from Mostar which was rather satisfyingly downhill most of the way, and it was interesting when we noticed that we were in Serb areas when the Roman alphabet signs were blacked out by graffiti, and in Croat or Muslim areas when the Cyrillic signs were blacked out. To get to the Dubrovnic part of Croatia, we had to dart back into Bosnia's 14kn coastline before re-emerging into Croatia. It was a nasty wet day, and we warmed our hands by a barbecue during a coffee break (Danny is addicted to the stuff!)
That evening, failing to find a campsite, we found a deserted small beach-cum-fishing quay where we pitched our tents, and made spaghetti with spicy ragout sauce and rehydrated some mash. It was really very scenic.
We then made good time into Dubrovnic, and accepted a very grotty but impeccably located apartment spitting distance from the city walls. We agreed to a lower price on the condition that we would not cook in the flat- so we used our stove in the courtyard!
Dubrovnic itself is a very beautiful place, and it is just as I had expected. It is rather like St Malo, but with nicer colour stone, and a lot more panache. It was great to have a rest day the following day (my sleeping bag liner is now clean and my sleeping bag is dry!!) We ran into Fabian, the other Swiss chap in the supermarket co-incidentally, and arranged to meet again in Kotor, Montenegro the following day. He was leaving at sparrow's fart, so we didn't cycle with him, favouring a more gentlemanly 8.30am.
The route out of Dubrovnic this morning was rather a climb, but afforded stunning views of the old town. On my way into Montenegro I asked if I could change my left over Kunas into Euro in Macedonia, and was promptly reminded that "Montenegro" was the name of the country I was about to enter! I received my first stamp in my passport in my entire trip at the border.
In Montenegro, we immediately found a little butcher's shop which would not only sell čebapčiči meatballs and chicken pieces, but also grill them for you next door, and serve them to you in a lovely greasy pitta! Delicious!
We then saved a tortoise that was about to get run over on the curb by hurding him back into the brush- every 10 seconds his head would emerge from his shell, he would try to move forward, then a car would roll by and his head would go back inside for a further 10 seconds.
To get to Kotor, we circumnavigated the largest fjord in southern Europe which is absolutely stunning, with little villages on the banks, and ancient churches. There is a monastery on an artificial island that was built hundreds of years ago!
On the banks, we ran into Andy, another Swiss chap who has decided to walk from the Iranian border home to Switzerland. He started in December, and has no money, and no tent. He has relied on people to look after him all the way, and he has been very successful. Amazingly he refused some pasta when I offered it to him!
Kotor is a truly special little place. Set on the banks of the fjord with the mountains behind it, it is protected by ancient city walls just as Dubrovnic is. It is much smaller, but feels more authentic and less touristy. There is a marina with some lovely mega-yachts flying the British Ensign.
Overlooking the city, hundreds of feet up, is the old fortress that used to protect the city from the Ottoman Turks. The climb was tough but gave us the most incredible views.
I am sharing a room with the other Swiss guys- very cash efficvient and more comfortable than camping! I have yet to finalise my route east. I had thought to go through Albania to Kosovo (both countries are aparently safe) and then through Macedonia and Bulgaria. The FCO however advises against the border area between the two countries due to unexploded devices, so my insurance is not valid for there amd I therefore won't go.
I will probably go down to Tirana, then into South Macedonia, and into Greece however I have not ruled out the Tirana-Scopje-Sofia route. Watch this space!
Thanks for this report :-) it was funny to read and i did not know that my brohter is addicted to coffee :-)
ReplyDeletehave a safe trip!
maya
Nice to see the Sibirsky Extreme sticker still there :)
ReplyDelete