Arber, with lunch!
Museum of National History, which I visited this morning. Note the impressive communist style mosaic.
Main Square. The mosque was left by the communists despite the destruction of other mosques due to its beauty.
Danny and Fabian
Just crossed into Albania!I decided to head down to Tirana, and then East to lake Ohrid in Macedonia. My trip will then probably dip into Bulgaria before going through northern Greece towards Turkey.
After a great day under sunny sky, the three of us found a camp site near Ulcinj, not far from the Albanian border. The weather was so lovely that I couldn't resist going for a dip in the chilly sea on the pebble beach that was near the campsite. That night none of us got much sleep due to a Slovenian students' weekend away that was taking place in our campsite. If Fabian hadn't insisted on a 6am start the following day I would have joined in the revelry! The early start did however mean we achieved a lot that day.
The following day the 26th, we cycled to the Albanian border where we were met for the first time by "old fashioned" border crossing rituals- long queues, and the necessity of E 10 entry tax - the EU does have a few advantages!
The moment we crossed the border, we became aware that the culture of our surroundings had vastly changed. People were using donkeys to move things around the countryside, and ladies were washing their clothes in the street. Rural Albania is visibly not a wealthy place however nearly every person smiled at us broadly and waved, shouting "Ciao, Ciao!" We felt like filmstars, and it became quite a skill to both wave and shout back at the same time as cycle! It turns out that most Albanians speak Italian as their primary foreign language due to the availability of Italian TV. It was not only the pedestrians! Most cars hooted their approval and waved, and people hanged out of buses to wave and ask us where we were going!
At a bridge a ten year old kid high-fived us all, then ran on to meet us when we stopped. In an instant he had his mits in Danny's bag, and had taken his small box of turkish delight. He did not however run off with it, but returned it and was given a piece. The kids here are cheeky but they seem to be friendly and honest.
Due to some military discipline from Fabian (I confess to find hard cycling not particularly relaxing!), we got to Tirana, a distance of over 145k in time for tea. The city has smart bars, and reminds me of Miami and Bangkok rolled into one. It also has a central square that reminds me of Havana. People are well dressed, and sip cocktails as they would in any other major city.
The city has a true buzz to it, and you feel yourself interacting with it, rather than simply looking at it. Crossing the road requires some skill as the little green man is about as useful as a zebra crossing in Toulouse. I find the safest way is to shadow a local as they navigate the crossings, cars going everywhere around them. I was a little shocked to see a pram being wheeled over the road, however it all seems to work, every man takes responsibility for his own safety, and there are apparently no more accidents than in other places.
After a great day under sunny sky, the three of us found a camp site near Ulcinj, not far from the Albanian border. The weather was so lovely that I couldn't resist going for a dip in the chilly sea on the pebble beach that was near the campsite. That night none of us got much sleep due to a Slovenian students' weekend away that was taking place in our campsite. If Fabian hadn't insisted on a 6am start the following day I would have joined in the revelry! The early start did however mean we achieved a lot that day.
The following day the 26th, we cycled to the Albanian border where we were met for the first time by "old fashioned" border crossing rituals- long queues, and the necessity of E 10 entry tax - the EU does have a few advantages!
The moment we crossed the border, we became aware that the culture of our surroundings had vastly changed. People were using donkeys to move things around the countryside, and ladies were washing their clothes in the street. Rural Albania is visibly not a wealthy place however nearly every person smiled at us broadly and waved, shouting "Ciao, Ciao!" We felt like filmstars, and it became quite a skill to both wave and shout back at the same time as cycle! It turns out that most Albanians speak Italian as their primary foreign language due to the availability of Italian TV. It was not only the pedestrians! Most cars hooted their approval and waved, and people hanged out of buses to wave and ask us where we were going!
At a bridge a ten year old kid high-fived us all, then ran on to meet us when we stopped. In an instant he had his mits in Danny's bag, and had taken his small box of turkish delight. He did not however run off with it, but returned it and was given a piece. The kids here are cheeky but they seem to be friendly and honest.
Due to some military discipline from Fabian (I confess to find hard cycling not particularly relaxing!), we got to Tirana, a distance of over 145k in time for tea. The city has smart bars, and reminds me of Miami and Bangkok rolled into one. It also has a central square that reminds me of Havana. People are well dressed, and sip cocktails as they would in any other major city.
The city has a true buzz to it, and you feel yourself interacting with it, rather than simply looking at it. Crossing the road requires some skill as the little green man is about as useful as a zebra crossing in Toulouse. I find the safest way is to shadow a local as they navigate the crossings, cars going everywhere around them. I was a little shocked to see a pram being wheeled over the road, however it all seems to work, every man takes responsibility for his own safety, and there are apparently no more accidents than in other places.
The other thing to note about Tirana, is the almost total absence of beggars- it seems that anyone who would be begging has taken some initiative and is selling something on the side of the street! This is a very happy city, amid the chaos!
After my mother told my brother Dan Dan (George) I was in Albania, he called is close old Radley friend Bessi (sorry mate, I don't know how your name is supposed to be written), and within 10 minutes I quite unexpectedly received a call from Bessi's brother Arber (an old Etonian, but no one's perfect!) who lives in the city with his mother and father. I was immediately invited to stay, and have been truly spoilt with Arber's mother's most wonderful Albanian home cooking- roast sea bream with all all sorts of accompaniments, Albanian Riesling, and a great Albanian cooked breakfast this morning with eggs, saugages, and goat cheese amongst all sorts of other things. His parents are fascinating to talk to, as they can speak very clearly about Albania's difficult past and fastly developing present. Today, Albania applied for membership of the EU, which shows quite how far they have come since the fall of communism. The family is very proudly Albanian, and quite right too. They also love telling jokes!
Yesterday, Arber took me out for some delicious koftes, and got stuck in Gridlock whilst taking time out of his working day to come and collect my stuff in his car (Greek PM visiting). He has been really generous, and I have also met some of his friends. He is playing in an important pro basketball match tonight- and I am going to go and support. Fingers crossed! We may head out to celebrate victory tonight with a drink or two (or else it will be my birthday to celebrate!) Right I need to go and meet him!
After my mother told my brother Dan Dan (George) I was in Albania, he called is close old Radley friend Bessi (sorry mate, I don't know how your name is supposed to be written), and within 10 minutes I quite unexpectedly received a call from Bessi's brother Arber (an old Etonian, but no one's perfect!) who lives in the city with his mother and father. I was immediately invited to stay, and have been truly spoilt with Arber's mother's most wonderful Albanian home cooking- roast sea bream with all all sorts of accompaniments, Albanian Riesling, and a great Albanian cooked breakfast this morning with eggs, saugages, and goat cheese amongst all sorts of other things. His parents are fascinating to talk to, as they can speak very clearly about Albania's difficult past and fastly developing present. Today, Albania applied for membership of the EU, which shows quite how far they have come since the fall of communism. The family is very proudly Albanian, and quite right too. They also love telling jokes!
Yesterday, Arber took me out for some delicious koftes, and got stuck in Gridlock whilst taking time out of his working day to come and collect my stuff in his car (Greek PM visiting). He has been really generous, and I have also met some of his friends. He is playing in an important pro basketball match tonight- and I am going to go and support. Fingers crossed! We may head out to celebrate victory tonight with a drink or two (or else it will be my birthday to celebrate!) Right I need to go and meet him!
Macedonia tomorrow!
Hey, Humphrey, Congratulations on your journey so far. Jessica sent me the link today! Shall continue to follow your adventures with interest.
ReplyDeleteBonne route.